Over the weekend we drove to Inverness, a tiny town near Point Reyes about an hour north of the San Francisco Bay Area. We had plans to rendezvous with friends to dine at Vladimir's Czech Restaurant. What a fun adventure, mainly due to the fascinating owner, Vladimir.
Vladimir proved to be quite an interesting character. Dressed in native Czech clothing and wearing a pair of knee high riding boots, he basically runs the restaurant single handedly. At 75 years old he still shows up early each morning to prepare the food himself. He also runs the full bar and serves the tables. He didn't hesitate to sit down and share some wine with us as he regaled us with his colorful history. At the age of 18 he skied across the Czech border into Germany to escape the new communist government. After many adventures including time spent in work camps, a year at wine school in Bordeaux and several years in Australia, he immigrated to the USA in 1958 and opened his eponymous restaurant at its current location in Inverness in 1960.
As we expected the food was hearty, well-prepared Czech fare. To start we were served freshly baked bread from the restaurant's ovens. One of the loaves was a tasty sour rye, the other an unbleached wheat.
Next an intriguing bowl of beef soup caused much debate at the table about what cut of beef it entailed. Turned out to be oxtail which explained the rich flavor and full body. It was one of the better oxtail soups I have encountered.
The hit dish of the night was definitely the stuffed cabbage roll. The huge roll consisted of veal, ham hocks and kraut stuffed into red cabbage leaves and topped with gravy. The stuffing was delicious and juicy. Definitely not to be missed.
A special of the night, pheasant, was a bit disappointing as it had been slightly over-cooked and tended to dryness.
The large half duckling was delicious with a tart-sweet plum sauce accented with caraway. An odd combination that worked very well.
Weinerschnitzel, breaded veal, was perfectly cooked and served without gravy.
All the dishes were served with a side of Czech-style dumpings which seemed very bland to me at start but the subtle flavor and texture grew on me and I quite enjoyed them. A tasty dish of sweet and sour red cabbage was served on the side to be shared by the table.
Only one dessert is offered, an cinnamony apple strudel with cream, made with apples that Vladimir grows himself.
We ended dinner by sharing the special Czech coffee made with a generous shot of Slivowitz, plum brandy.
If you are a fan of hearty, peasant style food you will enjoy Vladimir's Czech Restaurant. Make a point of asking Vladimir to share a glass of wine and you will be highly entertained in addition to being well fed.
Awful "food," none of it edible. On Tuesday we were told that the weekend foods on the menu were sold out; so we had leftover veal, but it tasted like pork. Not even the pickles and red cabbage were edible---they tasted very old and stale. The waiter (owner?) was brusque and absolutely no chef because the "food" was so execrable. No one should ever eat here, even if every other place in Inverness is closed.
Posted by: Sandra McPherson | July 09, 2005 at 10:15 PM
Vladimir is very perceptive. If you had a bad experience, it's probably because he decided that he doesn't like you.
Posted by: JM | January 11, 2006 at 04:57 PM
I want to know more about Vladimir's Czech Restaurant where is it. I would love to try!
Posted by: jasica | September 06, 2006 at 12:31 PM
Such a great restaurant ! My husband and myself had a wonderful time there ! Very East European culture and decoration and the food was excellent! We even decided to drive from Walnut Creek to there every month !!!! And the owner is simply amazing and very very nice.
Just make sure to have some cash or your check book when you go there because they don't accept credit card.
Its adress
Vladimir's Czech Restaurant
12785 Sir Francis Drake Blvd.
Inverness, CA 94937
(415) 669-1021
Posted by: Anne-Laure | January 05, 2007 at 03:33 PM
Vladimir's is one of the true gems. Always friendly and great hearty food. Good beer and bar with friendly locals. Don't miss it!
Posted by: Mark | February 11, 2007 at 09:14 PM
One of the best restaruants and atmospheres in Marin, and don't let the word get out. If you are from the area - YOU KNOW - if not, then take your photos and GO HOME!
Posted by: steven | March 11, 2007 at 05:24 PM
Vlade is old school and that's why you go there. Forget people that post pictures of their entire meal like above, they should stay home in Iowa. You go for the beer, the stories, and hard work he puts into everything. I've been there when he's told people that complained to go sit in the car. And they should. Save the critiques for Aqua in downtown SF. C'mon people.
Posted by: Greg | August 02, 2007 at 02:48 PM
I am not surprised that Vladimir's is still going strong! I recently suggested this absolutely marvelous restaurant to my sister-in-law just on the memories I had of going there over 25 years ago! I am definitely making the trip soon to go back even if it will be almost a 5 hour trip for me now. If the apple streudel is as good now as it was then it alone will be well worth the trip!
As far as the owner goes he was a gracious host sharing memories of his escape from across the Czech border into Germany to escape the new communist government. I'm so glad he came to the United States to share his memories with people who pass through as well as his foods.
Posted by: Darlene Hale | August 07, 2007 at 02:06 AM
I just ate at Vladimir's with a dear friend of mine and had the most horrible experience. I have gone there for years and adore Vladimir, but the experience I had was with his nephew. He ignored us, was extremely rude and charged us $12 for two beers. I am so disappointed and will never go back.
Posted by: Jesse Quattro | August 18, 2007 at 10:16 PM
Horrible establishment! As a second generation Czech-American (with parents whose escape stories are more interesting than Vladimir's), I had been looking forward to coming to his restaurant for years. There few other authentic Czech restaurants in California and I finally had the opportunity to make the trip. Within seconds of arriving, my husband and I were immediately, and rudely, turned away at the door by Vladimir's unfriendly nephew because of our baby. Vladimir does not allow children to eat in the restaurant because of the bar. "My uncle runs it that way" was the reasoning. When I asked if we could eat outside, we were rudely told that he does not serve outside. And yet, Vladimir's is dog-friendly? I simply cannot believe that this incredibly rude estabishment is still in business after all these years. Czech people are among the most hospitable in the world (if you escape the tourist zones)-- yet we were treated like American tourists in Prague. I have never been more ashamed of my own people than by this man's unfriendly, unaccommodating service. No wonder they have to charge $26 for peasant food; by the rate they turn customers away, they'd have to recoup their losses somehow. What a true, almost comical, disappointment. I felt like Clark Griswald when he finally made it to Wally World and was turned away at the gate. Avoid this restaurant at all costs. You can get authentic polevka (soup) at Cafe Prague in San Francisco, and be afforded the warm-hearted hospitality of every other normal Czech. At the very least, Vladimir's could advertise their many limitations and restrictions on-line to travellers before making the long hike out. A simply and courteous business practice. Additionally, it should be known, they only accept cash. So... in short, no kids, no credit, no checks. But they do accept dogs. Fitting company I must say.
Posted by: Ginny | September 04, 2007 at 10:35 AM
I completely identify with the bad experiences expressed here. I was part of a large group who went to Vladimir's for a birthday dinner. The experience was odd from the beginning. The woman who seated us (his wife?) asked us a question about the upcoming gubernatorial election before we'd even taken our seats, seemingly polling our political leanings. Then Vladimir rudely denounced a man in our group for wearing a tank top (he covered up with a sweatshirt). The food we received was disgusting. We're all experienced diners and know bad food when we taste it. The entree was some type of deep fried chicken dish and it was gristly and fell apart on the plate...virtually inedible. The vegetarian in our group was unable to get a meal -- they kept bringing her things with meat despite her requests, so she went to the pizza place next door. The birthday boy claims his stomach was never the same after this truly awful meal. What a strange man and what a bad restaurant!
Posted by: Mark | September 18, 2007 at 11:03 AM
Vladimir's is GREAT! Hearty, rich peasnat food, and outstanding authentic strudel with cream. My kind of place. And i don't even like beer, but it tastes so good with that food! Sorry to hear so many bad experiences from travelers expecting something it's not.
Posted by: brad | December 12, 2007 at 12:01 PM
I was born and raised in the Czech Republic and I've lived in the Bay area for some time now. I went to Vladimir's once because I really missed czech food. I have to agree that Vladimir wasn't very friendly, even though I spoke Czech to him and tried to show my patriotism. He scolded me for talking on my cell phone. But I didn't hold it against him - I just thought he was a grumpy grandpa :-) I have to agree the food wasn't good. Some of the dishes on the menu didn't even seem czech (at least I have never heard of them). They seemed more czech/german cuisine combination. And I thought it was too expensive for the quality. I think it's just been a while since he tasted real czech food...and of course you can't get the same ingredients here. I've been to Cafe Prague in San Francisco once and it was much better. Maybe he is getting old and can't cook that well any more.....either way, I wouldn't go back there.
Posted by: Veronika | January 25, 2008 at 03:41 PM
I saddened to report that Vladimir passed away Labor Day weekend 2008. I don't know what will happen to the restaurant, but rumors are that the owner of Manka's Lodge wanted to buy Vlad's out. Local residents may not mind, since it would mean that the Lodge won't be rebuilt in the residential neighborhood on that narrow street up the hill, after it burnt down a few winters ago.
Posted by: Michal | September 07, 2008 at 07:25 PM
Boy I hope Margret of Manka's does not get her hands on Vladimir's. She will only again create a place that the locals and weekend residence will feel un welcome.
The place is better off as a pub.
Posted by: John | September 30, 2008 at 03:03 PM
In the description of his food there was mentioned a "dumping"...it is "dumpling"
I also noticed how so many people commented on the owner's attitude. I was born in CZ and deffected at the age of 24 in 1984. I just spent 3 years in Czech Republic between 2004-2007. I must tell you that this attitude is very much part of many Czech citizens. I thought it was the communist system and I am sure it played big part. I call it the "Post communist carry over rudeness fever" But I came accross so many rude people who were very restrictive, just like Vladimir - no kids, no shirts, no telephones in restaurant...no,no,no in mny establishments. Same with the goverment bureaucrats. Awfull experience aspecially after being in USA where many people excercise politeness and courtesy on a daily basis. Not all, but a whole lot more than Czechs. It is notable especially when a person returns back to the US. The rudeness feels so familiar it still sounds in my ears and it is one of the worse experiences I brought back to USA. Yet it was so much easier to make tons of very close friends, more so than here in the USA. I still miss them. JF
Posted by: Jara Franc | March 20, 2010 at 09:39 PM
Saddened to learn of Vladimir's passing in 2008. A friend and I on vacation from the UK dined with Vladimir in 2002. We had driven up from San Francisco and found Vladimir's open. He was a warm, generous host, even sharing some Becharovka with us (Czech plum brandy). Some friends from San Jose had dined with him as relatively recently as 2006 and said he was still going strong.
I shall always recall with fondness that small time that our paths crossed.
What prompted me to look up Vladimir's again was this story about Australian winemaker Josef Chromy, who shares some parallels with Vladimir's life:
http://www.australiaplus.com/story/115/det.aspx
RIP
Posted by: JetRobins | June 06, 2010 at 07:27 PM
My friendship with Vlad goes back 25 yrs and the thought was he had a very dry sence of humor, BUT was always right-on. Spent many hrs there and even time skiing. The relationship was real and went til he passed. Now "Vladimir's is run by family and Vladia (daughter) is at the helm. Give em a try and you'll be pleased for sure.
Posted by: Sid Ames | July 24, 2010 at 11:36 AM
Vladamir is related by blood to Manka's family. Manka was the first name of the previous owner of Manka's Inverness Lodge. Manka was the 2nd owner of Manka's. Margaret Grade' is the 3rd.
Manka's has about 20 units, four of which burned to the ground when the Lodge/Restaurant building burned down during a bad windstorm. The Lodge is where Price Charles and Camilla stayed when they toured West Marin a few years ago. Charles took over the 4-units in the Lodge, making one his bedroom, one his office, one his dressing room, and one his living room. Furniture was moved out to storage during that visit.
If you wanted to get close to Vladimir, get the best food, the best prices, and the best service, you would have joined him in the back room Sports-Bar area to watch hockey on his big screen LCD TV.
As the owner, Vladimir could decide, on the fly, if your meal was going to be $10, or $30, depending on *your* attitude. You could easily insult him by not eating what he put before you. The more he liked you, the more free pints of Pilsner you got.
http://www.mankas.com
http://www.yelp.com/biz/vladimirs-czechoslovaki-restaurant-inverness?rpp=40&sort_by=rating_desc
Posted by: George Habernosted the Third | September 19, 2010 at 10:55 AM
Wow.. It's Delicious! I like this food of restaurant. I love Weinerschnitzel, and it's very spicy.
Posted by: חופשת סקי | November 01, 2011 at 11:29 AM
Great post shared by you. I like to eat spicy and delicious food. When I see such kind of my favorite food I can't stop myself.
Posted by: קלאב מד | November 02, 2011 at 12:09 PM