Hungry Mouth

Peter Luger Steakhouse, New York

While on our recent trip to New York City, we of course had to try a steak at Peter Luger, often cited as the best steakhouse in the USA. We called 6 weeks in advance for a Friday night dinner reservation for 2 and the only time slot offered to us was 9:45 pm. I was later told by those in the know that they hold back tables for locals and regulars...as unknown tourists we were shunted into an unpopular time. It could have been worse, they were still seating people at 11:00.

It was raining so traveling by public transport was out. Because of the apparent difficulty of finding a taxi in Brooklyn we hired a car service to take us. This worked out fine and made it easy to return to our hotel after dining.

Luger's was packed, noisy and bustleing. Luckily we managed to snag a seat at the long bar and our table was ready on time. It's clear that one doesn't go to Luger's for atmosphere unless one likes that run-down German beer hall feel. My martini was truly ghastly so I switched to beer after one sip. We didn't bother with the wine menu having heard it's not impressive. Beer actually goes quite well with the food.

We were seated in a room upstairs. Not a great room for those who want to see and be seen but perfect for us. Unlike the downstairs rooms which have bare wooden floors, the upstairs is carpeted and conversation at the table is actually possible.

At Luger's only tourists look at the menu. Heh. There is really only one thing to order and that is the Porterhouse for 2 or more. As accompaniments we ordered the German Fries (hash browns) and the Creamed Spinach. Also a couple pieces of the famous bacon to start. First up was a very nice bread basket with 3 types of rolls...all delicious, particularly the onion rolls.

On the table is always a gravy boat of Luger's Steakhouse sauce. I'd heard that one must never put it on the steak but it goes well on the salad and rolls. Honestly, to me it just tasted like a watered down version of shrimp cocktail sauce...basically ketchup and horseradish with a squeeze of lemon. I don't get the allure.

The bacon, however, lived up to its reputaion. Easily the best bacon I have ever eaten. The only thing that confuses me is that it is referred to as Canadian bacon when it is clearly cured pork belly rather than tenderloin. Still superb.

The steak arrived quickly. This is not a linger over your courses restaurant. It was already sliced and before I could get a picture the waiter had served our plates. That took me by surprise.

The steak was cooked perfectly medium rare and served on a sizzling hot plate, apparently the plate it was broiled on. Lots of fat pooled in the bottom of the plate to spoon over each serving.

The plates after serving:

My companion tried to cook the meat further on the sizzling plate as it was a bit too rare for him. Worked pretty well.

The potatoes were quite good, almost blackened and crispy. The spinach was meh. Tasted more like flour and milk than cream to me.

So was this the best steak ever? I'm hard pressed to think of a better steak I've eaten. It had that deep, bloody, almost minerally flavor that denotes a well-aged prime steak. And it was very tender but still had a nice chew. Supposedly Luger's gets first pick of all the top prime meat produced here, and then dry ages it in house which may explain why it is so good. It was well-seasoned though I don't believe the melted fat was butter as is claimed. Maybe tourists get oil instead?

Definitely worth a visit for any serious steak fan.

Katz's Deli, New York

For years I have dreamed of trying the renowned pastrami at Katz's Deli in New York City. As a serious fan of good Jewish-style deli, I've lived in frustration in Houston and the Bay Area unable to obtain anything deserving of the name pastrami or corned beef. I satisfied my deli cravings vicariously by reading dining reports of those fortunate enough to eat in NYC, and based on those reports felt certain that Katz's pastrami was the king. And so it is.

I finally had the opportunity to eat there last week.

Thanks to many reports and insider tips, I knew the best way to order. When you enter Katz's you are given a ticket like a movie ticket. Don't lose it! And don't sit down and receive table service. Go directly to the deli counter and stand in line in front of one of the deli servers. Hold a couple bucks in your hand so the deli person can see it and know they will be tipped. Order your sandwich. They'll hand slice it, first giving you a generous sample. They'll place your sandwich on a paper plate and throw some pickles on another plate. Give them your ticket and they'll write the amount you owe on it. Put your tip in the cup, take your plates and then go find a table. If you want something to drink like a beer, go back up to a different area of the counter.

I made a terrible ordering mistake. Even though I had been assured many, many times that their pastrami was the best, I just had to hedge my bet by getting half a corned beef sandwich and half a pastrami sandwich.

The pastrami, identifiable by the black pepper coating, was absolutely superb...by far the best I've ever tasted. It was juicy brisket with just enough fat and a depth of flavor that wasn't overwhelmed by the pepper coating. It was enhanced by being hand sliced the old-fashioned way. I think Katz's is the last NYC deli that hasn't switched to machine slicing.The corned beef was very good but paled in comparison to the pastrami. Don't bother with it. (Also, be careful with those tastings you get at the counter. I was already full by the time I sat down!)

The crispy pickles were just the way I like, barely cured. They hadn't even reached the half-sour stage.

Katz's has no atmosphere to speak of. It's basically a dive, but an authentic one with a long history dating back to 1888 when it first opened.

Oh, you haven't lost that ticket they gave you on the way in? You need it to get out. Hand it to the cashier at the door and she rings up your purchases. $50 charge for lost tickets.

Vladimir's Czech Restaurant

Over the weekend we drove to Inverness, a tiny town near Point Reyes about an hour north of the San Francisco Bay Area. We had plans to rendezvous with friends to dine at Vladimir's Czech Restaurant. What a fun adventure, mainly due to the fascinating owner, Vladimir.

Vladimir proved to be quite an interesting character. Dressed in native Czech clothing and wearing a pair of knee high riding boots, he basically runs the restaurant single handedly. At 75 years old he still shows up early each morning to prepare the food himself. He also runs the full bar and serves the tables. He didn't hesitate to sit down and share some wine with us as he regaled us with his colorful history. At the age of 18 he skied across the Czech border into Germany to escape the new communist government. After many adventures including time spent in work camps, a year at wine school in Bordeaux and several years in Australia, he immigrated to the USA in 1958 and opened his eponymous restaurant at its current location in Inverness in 1960.

As we expected the food was hearty, well-prepared Czech fare. To start we were served freshly baked bread from the restaurant's ovens. One of the loaves was a tasty sour rye, the other an unbleached wheat.

Next an intriguing bowl of beef soup caused much debate at the table about what cut of beef it entailed. Turned out to be oxtail which explained the rich flavor and full body. It was one of the better oxtail soups I have encountered.

The hit dish of the night was definitely the stuffed cabbage roll. The huge roll consisted of veal, ham hocks and kraut stuffed into red cabbage leaves and topped with gravy. The stuffing was delicious and juicy. Definitely not to be missed.

A special of the night, pheasant, was a bit disappointing as it had been slightly over-cooked and tended to dryness.

The large half duckling was delicious with a tart-sweet plum sauce accented with caraway. An odd combination that worked very well.

Weinerschnitzel, breaded veal, was perfectly cooked and served without gravy.

All the dishes were served with a side of Czech-style dumpings which seemed very bland to me at start but the subtle flavor and texture grew on me and I quite enjoyed them. A tasty dish of sweet and sour red cabbage was served on the side to be shared by the table.

Only one dessert is offered, an cinnamony apple strudel with cream, made with apples that Vladimir grows himself.

We ended dinner by sharing the special Czech coffee made with a generous shot of Slivowitz, plum brandy.

If you are a fan of hearty, peasant style food you will enjoy Vladimir's Czech Restaurant. Make a point of asking Vladimir to share a glass of wine and you will be highly entertained in addition to being well fed.

Lotus of Siam Restaurant: Vegas Winner

Las Vegas was low on my list of places to visit until I discovered Lotus of Siam which serves the best Thai food I have eaten outside of a private home. Now I make excuses to head for the hedonistic city in the desert.

Lotus of Siam offers a full Thai menu but specializes in authentic Issan (northern) Thai food. Located in a run-down strip mall in an out of the way neighborhood in Las Vegas, the restaurant surprises diners by serving delicious dishes prepared with quality ingredients.  Don't let the outward appearance scare you off!  This is fabulous food at amazingly reasonable prices.

It's important to order properly to get the most from the dining experience.  I first always ask if the owner, Bill, is present.  He is a charming gentleman who will gladly pull up a chair and chat with you about the food which he is deservingly proud of. If Bill isn't present we ask for Tony, our favorite waiter.   We just ask for them to bring us what is best that day, always including some of the Issan specialties.  What follows is a fabulous feast.

Some of the "don't miss" dishes:

Nam Kao Tod consists of minced sour sausage mixed with green onion, chile, ginger, peanuts, crispy rice, lime, nasturtium and mint.  This is one of the best dishes I have ever tasted anywhere.  The crispy rice, which is deep-fried, has an incredible texture and nutty taste that stands up well to the strong spicing.  The combination of flavors is awesome.  The last time we ate there we actually ordered two plates for 3 of us so we wouldn't have to fight over it.  That is how good it is!

Nua Dad Deaw is another must have.  Described on the menu as Beef Jerky Issan Style it consists of deep fried marinated slices of beef with a home-made sauce.  The texture of the meat is much more tender than actual beef jerky but it does possess a certain reminiscent chewiness.  The sauce is deep and smoky in flavor.  Together they make for a very unique dining experience.

Those are the two dishes we always order though everything else we have tried has been excellent.

Pork satay was tender and luscious.

Chicken curry.

Koon Tenn consists of grilled shrimp with spicy sauce served on a bed of cabbage.  Delicious and fiery hot!

Fried Chicken Dumplings with sweet and sour sauce.

Dessert at Lotus of Siam is a treat.  The house made coconut ice cream with warm sticky rice and fresh mango is lovely and addictive. No picture.

Pictured above, the coconut ice cream with fried banana roll.  Yum.

Another bit of advice: most of the entrees are under $10 except for the Charbroiled Fresh Water Prawns.  The prawns are offered in 3 different sauces, each costs $28.95.  During our first meal at LOS we gave them free rein and they served us the Prawns in a spicy sauce.  The menu specifies 2 prawns but they served us 3 (there were 3 of us) for the same price.  We were quite shocked when we saw the bill but if price is no object for you, I encourage you to order them. This was an outstanding dish.  The prawns are actually flown in from a river in Thailand and they are huge, the size of a small lobster tail.  I love lobster but I have to admit these were sweeter than any lobster I have eaten and more tender. The sauce was marvelous and I ate every last bit of it with a spoon directly from the serving dish. But it's very expensive compared to the rest of the menu.

The restaurant has a very nice, well-priced wine list specializing in German wines that go well with the spicy food.  Speaking of spicy, diners can specify the heat level they prefer on a scale of one to ten.  We usually go for 6. 

I just can't rave enough about Lotus of Siam, both the food and service.  We have eaten there 4 times now, most recently in late October, and only once were we disappointed and that was on 4th of July when they were clearly short-staffed.  A multi-coursed dinner for two with a bottle of wine runs less than $100.   

Manresa Restaurant, Part 2, Entrees

On to the entrees.  The appetizers were delicious but this is where the restaurant truly excelled. 

First, my favorite course of the evening, a shivery "Foie gras and cumin caramel".  Imagine the most delicate creme brulee with the sinfully rich taste of foie.  I wanted to lick the bowl.

The Caramel was served with a "twice cooked foie gras with spiced quince on brioche".  The two together were dynamite.

"Scallop tartare with osetra caviar, watercress".  An interesting contrast of flavors.  The third tartare of the night.

"Horse mackerel with steelhead roe".  I guess I'm still a kid at heart because I loved how the roe popped in my mouth. 

"Brandade of cod surrounded by mashed potatoes with a potato chip in new oil".  The mashers had a lovely taste but the texture was somewhat gluey.  I've never been a fan of salt cod, so this was not one of my favorite dishes of the evening.

"Garbure of duck foie gras".   Here the foie was served seared and still warm.  I took a bite and knew it was delicious but it was just too late in the meal for me to enjoy such a rich dish.  When I think back on it, I could make a meal of the three foie offerings doubled in size.  And a lovely meal it would be.

My next course (not pictured) was "Monterey abalone with braised veal cheeks".  The abalone was tough as it has been every time I have eaten it...I never need to eat abalone again. The veal cheeks were braised to perfect succulence and full of flavor. 

The pic above was the Judge's "make-up" course.  Since he, poor man, refuses to eat cheese or fish, he missed many courses.  Just when he was starting to feel frustrated they brought him a prime filet with mashers and spinach.  He was well appeased.

"Confit of suckling pig, cardooons, boudin noir".  The picture shows the dish as it was presented to each diner prior to being served.  A knock out dish.

" '36 hour' lamb shoulder with sweet garlic".  I loved the way the garlic, which was very strong on its own, complimented the very tender lamb when tasted together.  Two of my favorite things. I need to start experimenting with sous-vide cooking given it can produce dishes as flavorful as this.

So ended the savory dishes...desserts still to come.  What an evening.

Manresa, Part One: Amuse-Bouches

The SF Bay Area chapter of an international internet dining group, Opinionated About, had its collective mind blown by a spectacular holiday feast at Manresa Restaurant in Los Gatos on Saturday night.  Many kudos to Chef David Kinch who is clearly in the very top echelon of SF area chefs.  I was so focused on the superb food,  I didn't recognize Isabella Rosellini when she entered the restaurant! (No, she wasn't part of our group).

The dinner lasted from 7:30pm--2:00am.  I am serious.  Twenty-four courses not counting the many substitutions for the people who have food "fetishes"*.  All told, our group probably received well over 30 distinct preparations.

Given the number of dishes I'll break this review up into several parts.  This post will cover the amuse bouches (pre-bites, appetizers) only.

"Parmesan churros"  were crispy and light as air yet dense with flavor.

The "Carrot-orange cocktail with hibiscus" intrigued with a sequential layer of tastes.  First the sweetness of carrot juice, followed by the unfamiliar hint of hibiscus (gelee), then the sweet/tart valencia orange sorbet.  Once on the tongue they combined to produce a taste that was greater than the parts.  Excellent combination.

"Oyster with sea urchin, in its' own jelly"  This was my first significant taste of sea urchin.  I loved how it complimented the fresh, very cold oyster. 

To my never ending chagrin, the Judge doesn't eat seafood or cheese.  As a sub for the oyster course, he was served "Orange salad with fennel sorbet".  Heh, they didn't know he refuses to eat fennel.  He enjoyed it and I took advantage of the moment to tell him I was adding fennel back into the household menu.

I have no pictures for the next three amuse bouches:

"Sayori, shiso and bacon": sayori is a type of fish.  I thought the server said "chayote" so I assured the Judge he could eat it.  Ooops!  He didn't die.

"Fatty bluefin belly, meyer lemon":  a rich tuna tartare

"Chestnut croquettes": my notes say chestnut cream with sake, truffles and ?yams?  Whatever, this little deep-fried morsel was delicious.

"Beef and oyster tartare"  While I am a fan of Beef carpaccio, this was my first taste of ground beef tartare.  I was amazed at the depth of flavor and the fact I could distinguish the oyster from the beef.

"Potato leek soup with egg and Manchego".  This was a frightening dish for me.  My only food "fetish" is eggs.  I have no problem with eggs when they are disguised in other foods like baked goods or batters but I absolutely do not eat eggs when they are obvious: even quiches and omelets are precluded.  However, given the controversy surrounding one of the egg dishes at Manresa (see Chez Pim), I knew in advance I'd probably be facing an egg and decided I would brave it for the sake of  challenged foodies everywhere.  I am proud to say that I broke the yolk and ate  quite a bit of the egg.  It helped that the soup was luscious and redolent with the taste of leek and Manchego.

Well, that is the end of the amuse bouche portion of our holiday feast.  Believe it or not, sixteen courses still to come! 

* By the phrase food "fetishes" I mean foods we aren't physically allergic to but don't eat.  There is no purely rational reason for not eating them...just intense dislike that in some extreme cases convinces us we are actually allergic.  For me it's eggs.  For the Judge it's fish and cheese.  For others it's olives or meat or broccoli.  I mean no disrespect of anyone's fetishes or dislikes.

Merriman's: Big Island

On our way from Kona to Hilo, we stopped in Waimea to have lunch at Merriman's.  The positive reviews of Merriman's are warranted.  We so enjoyed the food that we stopped again for lunch on our return trip a few days later.

Pictures of first lunch:

Coconut curry grilled chicken with peanut dipping sauce, Vegetable and cucumber namasu, jasmine rice.  The chicken was spicy and tender. The namasu was pleasantly pungent.

Signature Lunch Dish:  Black vinegar braised Chinese short ribs drizzled with hot mustard, Waimea tomato and arugula, Jasmine rice.  The meltingly tender, deeply flavored rib meat sat atop feiry hot Kimchee. I loved it.

Congo bar with Tahitian Vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce.  I am now seeking a congo bar recipe...crisp cookie-like outsides surrounded a dense mousse-like chocolate center. 

Second Lunch:

Restaurant interior

Pipikaula sandwich with pumpkin-celery root soup.  The creamy soup was garnished with shredded jicama, carrot and wasabi.  Pipikaula is a Hawaiian smoked beef, similar to pastrami but without the pepper bite. It was tasty but I couldn't help thinking about those fabulous ribs from the previous lunch.  Still it was nice to try an unusual Hawaiian specialty.

Kalua pork barbecue sandwich with slaw and steamed red potatoes.  Merriman's BBQ sauce was a nice balance of sweet and hot.

Coconut creme brulee.

The chef, Peter Merriman, was a member of the original group of Hawaiian chefs who started showcasing native-grown foods back in the early 1990s, putting Hawaiian cuisine on the culinary map.  He is still going strong and has recently opened a cafe on the Kona coast. 

Lagniappe:  Our waiter told me how to cook the marvelous black-vinegar ribs.  It's simple.  Braise boneless beef ribs til tender in a liquid made of Shoyu, Balsamic vinegar, garlic, shallots and ginger.  I tried it (forgot to take pics) and the ribs turned out great.

For more recipes check out the website: Merriman's website

Mustards Grill--Napa Valley

I was pleasantly surprised by a recent lunch at Mustards Grill in Napa Valley. Three of us dropped by on a Sunday without reservations. I had low expectations, never having read a review of the restaurant.

The wait was about an hour but the staff was very accommodating and agreed to call us at a nearby winery when our table was ready. We were seated about 50 minutes later. The decor is nothing special but the restaurant had a lively buzz. It was a very hot day in Napa so I asked the staff to recommend a refreshing drink. They brought me an excellent mojito made with absolutely fresh mint. Perfect to combat the heat.

Our first appetizer was onion rings. They had been sliced almost paper-thin, lightly battered, fried, and piled high on a dinner size plate. Plenty to share and served with a spicy house-made ketchup. We also ordered lemongrass pork lettuce wraps; basically a plate with 4 arranged leaves of lettuce, each topped with shredded vegies and a generous hunk of pork. We rolled the lettuce around the toppings and dipped into nuoc cham. The pork was about half an inch thick, very tender and well marinated.

One main dish was an almond-mustard coated salmon served atop garlic mash and a medley of green and yellow string beans. A good sized thick portion of salmon was perfectly cooked. The crisp crust provided a nice counterpoint to the salmon without overwhelming it. The string beans were freshly picked and cooked al dente. Very nice dish.

We also had hanger steak. I am sorry to say that I was out-voted when it came to doneness. Me: medium rare. Two of them: medium to medium well. Democracy in action. Drastically over cooked as it was, the steak was still tender which tells me it was a decent piece of meat. The steak was served with caramelized onions and fries and an incredibly delicious watercress dipping sauce. The sauce was a freshly made mayonnaise with lots of lemon and enough watercress to add a peppery bite. I couldn't resist eating it plain with a spoon.

When we left the restaurant we walked through the kitchen garden, a lovely series of raised beds. It was obvious why certain ingredients, the mint and string beans, tasted so fresh.

Overall, a very nice lunch in Napa and reasonably priced.

Mustard's Grill

Zuni Cafe Lunch

The August issue of Saveur magazine featured the Zuni Cafe and its owner, Judy Rodgers. Rightfully so as the restaurant is a successful crystallization of the Bay Area food zeitgeist...casual, fresh, organic, politically correct. Exciting? No. Delicious? Yes.

I feel shame that I lived here for two years without indulging in Zuni's pleasures, particularly since I am a big fan of the cookbook. But I finally had a good excuse to go when a foodie friend from New York paid a visit last week.

My friend insisted on starting with a signature dish, the Zuni Caesar Salad. (I avoid this salad in restaurants in recent years because typically it is just plain bad). This was an excellent version, in fact, much like the one I make at home based on Julia Child's recipe. The romaine leaves are left whole, the anchovies are incorporated into the dressing in such a way that they are distinct yet subtle. The croutons are freshly made. Delicious. But not unique.

Next, I ordered a few oysters from the seafood bar. I requested small oysters. They were fabulous: a Humboldt Kunomoto, a Marin Miyagi, and a Pacific Orchard from BC served with a delicate champagne mignonette. My friend insisted I taste an eastern Malpeque...it was good but didn't have the Pacific brine that I adore. I want to taste the sea in my mouth. Why bother otherwise?

Then I couldn't resist the "House-cured Anchovies". I think 95% of the American population despises anchovies. Caesar's Salad only became popular when the anchovy element disappeared. I enjoy pizza with anchovies on the rare occassions when I have a companion who can tolerate it.

The Zuni Cafe anchovies should change the mind of anchovy phobes. They are not salty, not oily, not fishy. They are served with thin shards of top quality Parmigiano-Reggiano, and paper thin slices of celery. A few nicoise olives are tossed about the plate. Simple but perfect. I have to give credit for the idea of combining anchovies and celery...a surprising but brilliant combination.

For the main dish of our lunch we ordered one of the brick oven pizzas...described as pizza with parmesan, mozzarella, pork sausage, red onions and radicchio. When it was served I was surprised to see it was a white pizza, no sauce at all. It didn't need sauce. The crust was almost paper thin and crisp with well charred areas. The toppings took second stage to the delicious crust.

Zuni's signature dish is a roast chicken with bread salad for two which takes 40 minutes to cook to order. I saw it served to a table near me. Looked good. But I make roast chicken so often at home that I have no interest in eating it out.

In summary, the Zuni Cafe certainly isn't breaking any new culinary ground, but it's an excellent choice for good basic food made from top-notch ingredients. I just wish the cookbook had the pizza crust recipe!